Quilting
Foam is the most amazing
invention to come along in ages! With
this one amazing product in your back pocket you can learn how to make your
quilts burst and pop with 3-Dimensional effects and deep texture you can’t find
in ordinary quilts.
It
can be used:
As a stabilizer in
bags
To create the same
effect as trapunto quilting
Or simply as a
super stabilizer instead of interfacing
Quilting Foam Makes Your Quilts Burst and Pop with Effect
The
only real difference is personal preference because both are the same thickness
and perform the same way.
I
mostly use the Bosal-N-R Foam because one side has a slightly adhesive surface
that will adhere to your fabric when you iron your fabric onto the foam. It only holds for a little while, though, so
I always pin the two together if I’m not going to be sewing it within 24 hours.
The second reason I use this brand of foam is because Suzanna can find it on Amazon for a significantly reduced price.
Having
experimented with foam in several different projects, I will now give you my
vast store of wisdom on this subject.
Trapunto Quilting Replacement
Trapunto is an Italian word that means: “popping up certain parts of a quilting design, to make it stand out from the rest of the pattern.” (It’s shorter in Italian…)
I
am really attracted to this look in a quilt.
It’s
done by placing a double layer of batting behind your project, quilting it all,
and then cutting away the second layer of batting from everything but the designs
you want to emphasize.
To
me, this is a great waste of batting and worse, incredibly tedious.
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I’m not the most patient person in the world, and I have absolutely none for needless busy work.
We tried the trapunto technique on our “Fairies in my Garden” panel because we wanted to see if it was worth it. I did the quilting and Suzanna did the trimming – actually I made her. She has a vastly greater tolerance for busy work than I do, but even she concluded that the result wasn’t worth the time, and this was only a panel, NOT an entire quilt top!
So we looked around for other ways to achieve the same effect without the busy work.
Experimental Alternatives to Foam
First
we would put batting just behind the designs we wanted to pop out, trim them,
and then quilt a 2nd layer of batting behind the entire design.
This worked well as long as we didn’t quilt the background design too lightly. We found that the heavier we quilted the background, and the more lightly we quilted our pop ups, the more obvious the difference between the 2 and therefore more visually appealing.
But
it still wasn’t a big enough difference to suit me.
After
that, I tried quilting the entire panel, and then adding elements that I wanted
to emphasize after. Basically I would
cut out a piece of batting with the applique, then put them on together.
I did this on our Winter Wonderland Panel, when I added the trees after I had added batting to each “tree” separately, and then quilting the trees to the panel. This was pleasing, but a lot of extra work, so I looked around for another idea.
That’s when I found foam. What a revelation!
How to Make Sewing With Foam Easier
Foam
is approximately 1/8” thick and loves to be sewn. It pretty much stays where you put it, and
has a marvelous popup affect.
Don’t use it for very small designs
It’s a waste of foam because the popup effect is lost in the quilting process. I found this out with my “Cowboy and His Lady panel”. I put foam behind the cowboy, his lady, his dog, and the windmill. It worked just fine on the first 3 figures, but because the windmill blades were much smaller, and the satin stitching around the edges almost touched in the middle of each blade, the popup effect was entirely lost. So, don’t waste time or foam putting it behind very small designs.
Cut Your Fabric ¼ inch wider than
your foam shapes
When I first began using foam, I would cut the shapes right out of the foam, place the matching fabrics on top, and then satin stitch around the edges. This is how my “Lily Pad Table Topper” was constructed. As you can see, it works great for larger designs, but I’ve figured out a trick to this too.
When
you satin stitch around these foam/fabric pieces, you have to use a very wide
satin stitch in order to cover the edges because the foam is so thick. To get around this, I’ve started cutting my
fabric ¼” wider than the foam. This way,
when you layer the foam and fabric, the fabric lays down over and covers the
edge of the foam and then it only takes a narrow satin stitch to finish the edge.
This is the technique I used around the edge of the moon in my “Night Guardian” panel.
Know when to make your own templates
When I’m putting foam only behind certain design elements in an already printed panel, there is no way to sew it on the top as in my moon, or camels, etc. Instead, I trace out the designs I want to pop (I make my own template), and then I use this template to cut out the foam. Then I layer the foam behind the design feature, and quilt – not too heavily. When I have it the way I like it, I trim away the excess slivers from the foam.
This is how I did the mermaid and the large starfish in my still-under-construction-mermaid quilt. This works great for panels, and other images that are already printed.
Foam is also a great stabilizer for
any sort of bag you want to sew
Quilting foam helps the bag to hold its shape, and gives your project a lot of added strength. I have found that in this application, the heavier you quilt here, the more your bag will hold its shape and stand upright.
A word of caution about foaming a
bag
I found that out
because the foam is so thick it quickly makes seams too thick to sew. I almost went insane trying to get my first
media bag through my machine, even using my jeans needles, and I broke A
LOT!
The 2nd
bag I made sure to cut the foam ½” narrower that the fabric with much better
results.
Now I Can Pop “That” Up – and “That”
Can be Anything At All
Be sure to experiment, and enjoy working with this great product. I’m sure some of you will come up with some more creative ways to incorporate it into your projects – it really is worth it.
If you come up with an absolutely amazing way to make your quilts burst and pop, or if you discover something new about using foam, please contact us and let us know what you did and how you did it. Pictures are great to!
Most of us think
of our quilt backings as necessary – after all, a quilt is a fabric sandwich –
but boring in a sort of: “ho-hum, who
will ever look at this” way.
This is an understandable attitude, and, as only a few people will look at your backing, it’s also a truism…up to a point.
But just because most of the initial WOW factor is on the front doesn’t make your quilt backings any less important. And there is one very important class of people who who will look at them – other quilters of course!
The first thing another enthusiast does is to flip your project over and look at the back. This same principle applies to other crafts, like embroidery, as well.
We do this because only by looking at the “hidden” side can we really know how much work went into a project. Quilt backings tell us other things, as well, like the skill level of the quilter, the value of the quilt, and even if the quilt is a viable winner in a quilt show.
Why Your Quilt Backings are Just as Important as Your Fronts
Creating a Firm Foundation
Think of your
backing as the foundation of your quilt.
While it is mostly out of site, it is vitally important to the each
quilt’s overall appearance, strength, and durability.
Square Footage
Despite
its apparently subtle role in the appearance of a quilt, the backing is
actually the single largest area of any quilt.
This
appears to be a no-brainer but it would surprise you to know that to a vast
majority of quilters, the backing is an afterthought. Our miserly or lazy justifications go
something like; “since it’s only covering
the back and no one’s going to look at it, any old thing will do.”
WRONG!
Not only is your quilt backing the largest in terms of square footage and coverage, it also will take the brunt of wear and tear during the lifetime of your quilt.
Strength & Durability
While
your beautiful quilt top is exposed only to the air, and is usually protected
from people and pets, the quilt’s backing will rub up against anything and
everything. If your quilt backing starts
to wear or develop holes, it means you have to patch creatively – which is
painfully time consuming – or your quilt may eventually be destroyed.
Also,
your quilts are works of individual, unique, and powerful art. You want your quilts to last as long as
possible, even long enough to be handed down to future generations.
For
these reasons the quality of the fabric for your quilt backing needs to be carefully
considered.
This means
durability and that comes from the strength of your fabric.
I used to buy much
of my fabric at Walmart (when they still had a large fabric selection), and I
was always pleased with how much less they cost than the fabrics at the quilt
store. However, as I sewed and quilted
with these fabrics, I began to notice some serious downsides:
How quickly these cheap backing fabrics faded…
A tendency to wear holes through areas that were frequently handled…
Frayed through seams…
And generally just did not wear well at all!
That got me to
thinking about the quality of my fabric versus all the work that goes into a
quilt, and I came to a surprise conclusion.
I was wasting both
my time and my money by trying to quilt on the cheap.
Pricing
Not that anyone
from Princess YellowBelly Designs – and least of all thrifty me – would
recommend spending exorbitant instore prices for anything, especially backing.
Shopping around
and getting the best deals possible just makes good sense, but compromising on
the quality of your fabric is not.
One of my earliest
– and most embarrassing gaffes – was in trying to use a brand new, flat cotton
bed sheet as a backing! Most sheets are
14 count cotton thread, and you all know how quickly they wear out when in constant
use. Sheets are made for beds and are
not woven tightly enough for long lasting durability.
Do NOT use them on
the backs of your quilts!!
How to Choose the Right Fabrics for
Your Quilt Backing
Despite the epic
failure of my bed sheet quilt backing, it turns out that some of the reasons I
had for trying it were actually viable:
Bed sheets are big
I didn’t have to piece my backings, which is a pain
I didn’t have to hand sew the back seams of a king quilt, which is a real pain!
Well, the quilting world caught on to the reluctance of quilters to piece their quilt backings and they came up with a solution – backing fabric.
Ta-da!
Quilt
backing fabric comes at 108” wide, which is wide enough to cover a queen sized
quilt.
The
quality of these fabrics are top notch, which means they have great durability
and strength, and there are a plethora of colors and design options out
there.
And
every time I open a quilt magazine, there are new colors available. At first they only came in boring neutrals
but now these lovely, time-saving fabrics pretty much cover the color
spectrum.
The
cost is an average of $14.00/yd. which seems quite expensive at first, but when
you do the math, it’s usually cheaper to go this way rather than buying the
regular 45” wide fabric and going to the trouble of piecing it.
For
example:
1
queen quilt is approximately 90”x100”.
So with fabric that’s 108” wide, you’ll need roughly 3 yards. At $14/yd. that’s $42.00. If you purchase
regular 45” wide fabric you will need at least 6 yards. At $11/yd. this will cost you $66.00
and you still have to piece it.
Backing Motivations
This
may sound weird, but bear with me here and you’ll see what I mean. When it comes to backing, I think there are 2
schools of thought. Both sides of the
coin can be right, depending upon the particular project, so it’s worth putting
some thought into your quilt backing needs before laying out any cash.
1.
Functional
Quilt Backings
If
you want a purely functional backing that more or less disappears in relation
to the beauty of the front of the quilt, I recommend purchasing a mottled
fabric.
It
really doesn’t matter what color you choose or how bright that color is, the
important part is the pattern. The more
mottled or busy a pattern is, the more the quilting vanishes. This is useful if the pattern you’re quilting
isn’t your focal point, or if it doesn’t make sense in abstract – such as
outlining solid shapes in the front of the quilt.
Mottled
quilt backs also helps to hide all those little mistakes that we’re not
admitting we make. I do this a lot. It’s
the quickest way to getting your backing knocked in the head.
Also,
use a matching thread in your bobbin and the quilting will disappear even more.
2.
Statement
Quilt Backings
Sometimes,
though, I take me a notion and decide that the backing has to say
something.
For example, in my Home Pastures quilt – which features horses – I decided the backing needed to look like pastures too. So I used a fabric that was covered with horses in a field, and I “fenced the pastures” by using a strongly contrasting color during the sashing stage.
It was extremely creative if I do say so myself, and it made for a visually effective backing. The best part, of course, was that the pattern of the horses completely draws the eyes, and no one (not even me unless I’m looking very hard) can see the quilting!
If
your quilting pattern is one of the focal points of your quilt, then you’ll
want to choose a backing fabric with little to no pattern.
You
can also use a highly contrasting thread in your bobbin, and voila!
Your
backing is now visually appealing.
Disposing of Odds & Ends
If you don’t mind
piecing, backings are a great place to get rid of – oops – I mean to say incorporate scraps from your stash. You can sew these pieces together in a
recognizable pattern or just sew them any which way for a scrappy backing. It all works.
I will also often
use the leftovers of a fabric from the front of a project to start off a
scrappy backing.
This helps to pull
the entire project together visually, especially on smaller projects like wall
hangings and table runners, and makes aesthetic sense to everyone.
A Word about Black
I use black fabric quite often for my backings, especially on my silhouette panels, or when I really want to make a dramatic statement – like on my dragon quilt. Black is wonderful because it can either highlight your quilting pattern if you use a contrasting thread, or vanish all your quilting, if you use black thread.
But beware! It’s very hard to see what you’re
doing!!!
Michael rigged me
an extra LED light that I can use when I’m quilting on black for this very
reason. It’s mega frustrating – at least
for me – but also well worth the trouble.
Getting Your Backing Flat
Getting your
backing to lay flat and smooth as you quilt is essential, but unless you have a
long-arm quilting machine with rollers to hook your project into, you’ll have
to do it the old fashioned way.
Ingenuity.
I tried all of
those quilting “helps” that are supposed to help you hold your project tightly
and they now live in the back of a closet somewhere. I’ll review them eventually…
After a lot of
frustration and wasted money, I finally came up with a fairly simple method
that works well for me. Here it is:
DO NOT trim the
top of your project before layering it for quilting
The quilting itself will distort the edges somewhat and you will need to trim again after your project is quilted. If you trim beforehand as well, you will end up cutting off a good sized edge along the outside of your quilt. I once lost an entire border this way.
Always cut your backing piece and your batting at least 3” wider all the way around
This
is because the quilting process distorts your project slightly. I for one have
been known to quilt myself right off the edge.
Those extra inches give you vital wiggle room.
Spray starch and
iron on the wrong side of your backing.
Occasionally
spray starch will leave behind a weird shiny residue. It’s almost impossible to get this off
without washing the fabric.
Buy a cheap, thin
shower curtain from your local Dollar store.
Basting
spray, by its very nature, is sticky – very sticky. It will stick to anything in the vicinity,
including whatever surface you’re working on and from experience I know that it
is incredibly difficult to remove.
Laying
your new shower curtain down on your working surface before you layer and spray
your project will give you a no-muss-no-fuss clean up. These shower curtains can be used over and
over again. Get one!
Layer your
project, starting with the backing, wrong-side-up, and spray it with basting
spray.
Layer your batting
on top of that.
Smooth this out as
much as possible.
Note: It really
helps if you can get another person to help you hold the batting tight as you
lay it down.
Spray the top of
your batting with basting spray and lay the front of your project down on it
right-side-up.
Get
the top as smooth as possible by pulling and pressing smoothly. Once again, another pair of hands will really
help to keep your panel smooth.
Once the top is as
smooth and wrinkle-free as possible, flip your project over to the back.
Your
backing will now look like elephant skin…but here is how you fix this.
Determine the middle of your backing and gently pull
up the backing from the batting.
The
basting spray allows you to reposition fabric numerous times without having to
re-spray. Have someone press down firmly
on the mid-point while you pull your backing straight and lay it down
again. Smooth out.
Repeat as needed.
When your backing is as smooth as possible, iron it with
a hot iron.
This
adheres the basting spray tightly enough to hold your fabric in place without
pins. Usually. Occasionally I do use a handful of safety
pins to help hold a very large or very heavy quilt sandwich in place during
quilting.
Sometimes
I have to work in sections if my project is very large, and sometimes I have to
lift up, re-spray, and iron again before my backing will behave. But it’s well worth the effort! You end up with a smooth backing and no
pins!!
When your backing is as smooth as you can make it,
flip your project and repeat for the front.
I
always do the front last because that’s the one people mostly look at. Once you have your entire quilt sandwich
smooth and ironed, it will hold that way for about one week, before the basting
spray starts losing some of its moxy.
Don’t forget to finish your quilt backing with a name tag!
If
you think it will take you longer than this to quilt your project, I would put
in a few strategic pins to help encourage it to stay smooth and flat. Pins, used sparingly, are also a good idea if
your project is the size of a twin quilt or larger.
Once your project is ready for quilting, start as
close to the center as possible.
Using your hands, fingers, wrists and elbows, pull gently on your fabric as you work your way to the outside. I have found that with this method, I get a completely smooth front and back about 75% of the time. When I don’t the pleats are almost always on the backing and is never more than a small wrinkle or bubble that is almost impossible to see due to our disappearing tricks.
Since I started
using all these tips and tricks that I’ve outlined above, my projects became a
lot more doable, easier to handle, visually more appealing, and a lot more
rewarding. I really started enjoying the
entire process a great deal but beware – the more you enjoy it, the more
addicted you’ll become!
Here’s to your
future smooth-quilt-backing success.
It wasn’t the first time I’d been there but I sincerely hope it will be the last…and I wasn’t there to get a tattoo either. I’m a good girl, I am!
I went to the piercing parlor to get a Daith piercing in my ear to try to help my migraines. I confess to yelling when he pushed that needle through my cartilage – that sucker hurt.
However, as I sat there quietly bleeding, it occurred to me. I do this to myself all the time – when I sew – and I bet you do too.
Sewing is a physically risky business because essentially we’re working with knives. Of course, we like to give them euphemisms like scissors, pins & needles, and rotary cutters, but any seamstress can tell you…they’re really knives.
Personally, I’d be amazed to hear that there is one seamstress out there that hasn’t had a too close encounter with the sharp end of one of these supplies. They are necessary to our work, but they can be very painful.
Addiction – And How Not to Treat It
Here again is where the whole idea of addiction can raise its head.
When I was sewing my Peacock Panel, I had to pin every flower in place before I could sew – no handy Wonder Under here.
I used long, sharp quilting pins to secure those slippery leaves to the thick background. Those very helpful pins found no problem scraping along my forearms and jabbing into my chest as I sewed.
I’m pretty sure I yelled more than once, and when I was done, I did look like an addict with needle tracks all along the insides of both forearms. Talk about quilting dangerously.
But it was worth it.
Michael thinks I’m nuts sometimes, but even he has to admit the end result was beautiful.
That’s the gritty truth of an artist’s addiction to his/her craft. No matter the ill immediate consequences that we suffer personally, nothing will deter us from achieving our goal of adding a bit of beauty to this old world.
Maybe we shouldn’t even want to. Without a bit of pain no one would have ever painted the Mona Lisa, or built the Parthenon, or invented quilting in the first place.
Those Who Love Us
Speaking of my darling Michael, have any of you ever read or heard Hank the Cowdog books? They are positively hilarious – especially the audio book versions – but when you read about Slim Chance, just substitute Michael’s name instead.
This man of mine never moves fast, leans as soon as he stops and takes forever to think things through.
To his credit, his thinking is vastly different from mine and he often comes up with a solution that would never occur to me. He’s awesome, but I digress.
The point is that I’ve only seen him move fast 3 times:
When Suzanna decided an anthill was a perfect place to play
When the kids were playing in the ocean surf and a long dark shape showed itself in an oncoming wave
And when I sewed through my thumbnail
The needle had pulled out of the machine and was sticking out the fleshy side of my thumb through my thumb nail. That was not fun. Michael really jumped that time – I’m pretty sure that I screamed loudly. Being Michael, he promptly got his needle nose pliers and pulled.
Amazingly, while it was the first time I’d sewed through my thumb nail, it wasn’t the first time I’d sewn through the side of my thumb.
Last year, I was having vision problems in my left eye. But I live on the edge and do quilting dangerously, so instead of stopping, I kept leaning closer and closer to see what I was sewing and actually scraped the end of my nose with the needle. Now, that would have hurt!
Consequences of Quilting Dangerously
I have a special set of quilting pins that are about 3” long and sharp as lances, consequently many times I’ve had to wash out spots of blood from being stabbed. On my dangerous quilting journey I also:
Been burned with hot glue
Shoved hand sewing needles under my fingernail
And glued various body parts together
But it’s all worth it to me – because like any true addict I like the results. I read about one quilter who had actually glued her bottom to the floor. I found that hilarious but not surprising.
So there I am getting pierced and looking at the piercing guy. He’s tattooed from neck to ankles and I started thinking about how many needle punctures THAT took – and he did it on purpose! Now that’s addiction – of a different kind, but addiction nonetheless.
So maybe we’re not as insane as we may seem – when we keep on quilting despite the hazards – and we have something to show for it at the end of the day. And, at least our needle marks aren’t permanent.
Adding Possibilities to Your Fabric Art Projects with Variegated Threads
Of all the things you need to create a sewing project, thread is the second most important – fabric being the first. This is really great for me, because of all the different things that make up a sewing project, thread is my very favorite.
I’m like a kid with a new box of crayons every time I open my thread boxes. And, if you think I have trouble passing by other notions, thread is the straw that breaks this camel’s back.
Variegated threads = endless possibilities
When you go into any quilt store they have racks of the most gorgeous thread colors ever! And they’re always coming up with new and better types of thread.
A Thread to Rule Them All
Of all the choices available to me, my very favorite are variegated threads.
The “variegated” part of the name comes from the color variations on each spool. Some variegated threads come with only two-tone variations, others have as many as ten different colors fading back and forth.
These threads are fairly new in the quilting world, so the options available in this category are more numerous every time I go to the quilt store.
The girls actually had to pry some spools out of my hand on Wednesday, and physically drag me away from the thread displays. They very logically told me I had nothing to use these particular colors on at the moment – and I had too much other stuff to do – before I could come up with a project that would utilize these threads.
I’d like to know what logic has to do with anything when you’re in love.
These are all great color blends that work well on a surprising variety of projects and color schemes. Second spool from the end is the turquoise/lavender variegated blend I managed to snag the other day!
However, since I’m supposedly the voice of reason and common sense (because I’m the Mom you know, and therefore the most mature – ha! – and still setting an example), I reluctantly put those gorgeous spools back.
I did manage to get one spool that’s variegated in soft turquoises and lavenders – which will work beautifully with the mermaid quilt I’m making. Also, since I sew with turquoise and purple a great deal, I’ll be able to use it on different projects as well.
What Variegated Threads Cost
Knowing how much I love these threads, you’re probably assuming that I have a plethora of them in my thread boxes. Sadly, this is not the case because variegated threads are fairly pricey.
Think of variegated threads as being the “1 percenters” of the thread world, and metallic variegated threads as the “1 percent of the 1 percenters.”
So I’m very careful that what I buy is within my means.
These are my spring and summer collection – although I have also used these bright and attractive colors on fantasy panels, and to top-stitch quilt my one and only Jinny Beyer beauty.
My advice to you is to be very sparing with how many variegated thread spools you purchase, and think carefully before you buy.
One good rule of thumb is that a new spool has to be usable in at least 3 different projects that you’re thinking of. If I can’t match it to 3 things, then, as much as I hate not to, I don’t purchase it. Of course the exception is if a thread is perfect for a large and elaborate project – like my mermaid quilt.
Two-toned spools where one color is white (these work on a surprising number of projects)
Metallic variegated threads (because I also love metallic threads, so I double my buck-bang)
My three favorite “autumnal” variegated threads – these have made their presence known in probably 15 different projects over the last 3 years.
Many variegated threads can also cross “theme lines”. For instance, my orange/yellow blends can be used in autumn projects, sunset projects, and flower appliques.
Also, these threads come on different sized spools. If I’m only going to be using it occasionally, I buy the smallest spool available, but frequent use spools, like autumn themes, I buy in the largest spools available.
Available Types of Variegated Threads
Remember Forrest Gump’s famous line: “Life is like a box of chocolates; you never know what you’re going to get.
This is the reason I am so enthralled by variegated threads – even though you can see some of the different colors on the spool, you never know exactly what it’s going to look like till you sew with it. It’s a surprise every time.
Not only are there color variations on a single spool, there are different types of variegated threads on the market these days, which is totally awesome!
Due to the expense and because of their beauty, I never use variegated threads for regular seam sewing. Variegated threads are made to be noticed, so my advice would be to use them where they can be easily seen:
Top stitch quilting
Panel outlining
And appliqueing
I especially like to use variegated thread when I’m appliqueing with a satin stitch. The tighter the satin stitch, the more your variegated thread will shine, because only then can the variations in the colors truly be appreciated.
Variegated thread is also one of those rare items where brand and thread quality is of secondary importance. If you’re going to use variegated thread, then use it for the color and how it compliments your project – not by how expensive the spool is.
This is one instance where variegated thread really, really shows up. We liked this project. Then we added the dragonfly appliques and the variegated thread stitching. Now, we love this table topper.
This is a perfect example of how variegated threads can take you to the next level. This particular table topper was an experiment – we used all scrap materials, and leftover batting pieces. When we had it together, it was really nice. Then we decided to do the seam stitching with thick variegated thread. We discovered that not only did it look fantastic – but that it was the way to make these leaf table toppers. Incidentally, this item sold out within a few months…not bad for an experimental design!
With that being said, these are some of the brands that I have used:
1. Amann Group-Mettler
They carry a nice line in Silk Finish Multis with spools from 100yds. – 500yds.
2. YLI Corp.
This is made in Rock Hill, S.C. This is their 100% cotton quilting thread with 500m a spool so it lasts almost forever. And yes, those are my autumn spools.
3. King Tut Superior Threads
Also 500yds/spool. They’re made in Japan and are great to sew with.
4. Coats
They’re carrying some 200yd. spools for machine embroidery, but they work great in regular sewing machines as well.
5. Isacord
They come on those bigger green spools that are bell shaped and hold 1000m/spool so make sure you’ve got a lot of projects you can use that particular color on.
If you remember to use these threads as the icing on the cake, rather than the cake itself, you’re projects will really shine and the extra expense will be well worth it.
I honestly don’t know which spools of variegated thread in these pictures belong to which brands – the labels come off easily with these threads, and I forget.
Bonus Tip! Variegated threads can also be used for blending in. Although you can’t see it, this bright autumn tree panel was heavily quilted with variegated thread in the top stitching line.
Sewing within your means is a challenge because, like photography, fabric art is one of those hobbies that is just not cheap. Creating high-quality quilting projects cheaply, or at the very least for more reasonable prices, is an art form in and of itself.
It gets a lot easier if you remember two simple principles, and learn how to control one with the other.
The Paint & Potato Principle
Do any of you remember the “Happy Days” episode where Howard is sick so Marion takes charge of his Hardware Store for a day?
At the end of the day, Marion greets him by telling him that she sold out his entire paint inventory – for $1 a can. After Howard’s near heart attack, Marion shows him the receipts, which show the biggest single day of profit they’ve ever had.
Then she explains to Howard that it’s just like baked potatoes – you can’t eat them without toppings:
Chives
Sour Cream
Bacon bits
Etc.
Poor Howard is completely confused until Marion assures him that selling paint is the same thing – you make your money on the extras:
Brushes
Rollers
Buckets
Etc.
This paint and potato principle is alive and well in todays’ quilt stores. They have a fabric sale, which is great for us, but they’re making their money on the:
Thread
Basting spray
Scissors
Batting
Etc.
I want to make you aware of this and help give you the courage not to give in to it.
Being a Sucker
Everyone knows how super-easy it is to just buy everything you need because you’re there, you’re into the idea, and the quilt store has everything right there for you to select.
Especially if you’ve bought a pattern and all the supplies are right there.
I fell for this salesmanship seduction last fall when I bought the 3 specialty bag patterns I used to design my media bag. There was such a long list of supplies needed, and since I knew the sales lady, I let her talk me into just buying them, then and there.
3 $10 patterns ended up costing me $120!
It was even worse when I noticed in Walmart that they carried the exact same clear vinyl that I had purchased at the quilt store. Only at the store I had paid $10.00 for a 10” square of this vinyl and at Walmart they were selling it for $3.40/yard and the yard was 60” wide.
I felt like I had been a real sucker – because I had been.
You’ve probably felt badly about fabric art purchases you’ve made once you realized that you got suckered into buying something at a high price, or buying something you really didn’t need. It’s nothing to be embarrassed about, every truly passionate quilter has fallen into this trap at least once.
I do want you to be aware of the paint and potato principle, so that you won’t be suckered next time. Mastering the art of creating high-quality quilting projects cheaply depends largely upon your ability to resist these emotional impulses.
I enjoy sewing the “upper layer” of my projects the most, so I am extremely susceptible to the latest notions and supplies that make the upper layers more fun:
Panels
Thread
Trim
Unique buttons
And all things which glitter
Quilt stores excel in carrying these things. And, if we’re being completely honest, we love quilt stores. There’s nothing quite as satisfying as wandering around in a store and discovering new possibilities.
So the girls and I have developed a strategy for avoiding the worst of the pitfalls.
The Chair Control Principle
Just a few fabrics and extras can really add up the dollar signs in the cash register quickly. Paying close attention to what you pay cash for in the quilt store will help to cut down on overall expenses.
When we find a notion that we’ve never seen before, and that we just can’t resist, we buy the smallest package of it that we can.
Then we use the information to find it cheaper – often much cheaper – online.
The same thing goes for hot-ticket items like printed panels. We write down the information in the selvage or on the package, and then look it up on our favorite internet retailers. This one trick alone often saves us around $20 (USD) on a single panel.
This way we often get out of a quilt store for under $100.
Not only is shopping in a chair much easier, it also gives you power and control over what you purchase, when, and at what prices. The chair control principle will help you to regulate the paint and potato principle, and will save you time, frustration, and the feeling of being a sucker!
Problems with Online Shopping
Some things are very hard to buy online. These include items like zippers and thread.
Thread is hard to buy because your computer screen may not be showing the colors accurately, and it can be hard to get a feel for the actual texture of the thread.
Items like zippers and certain buttons are tricky because they’re usually shipped from China and you don’t always receive what you think you’ve ordered. Once I thought I had ordered one 9” sage green zipper. What I got were 50-7” lime green zippers! I’m still trying to come up with a project where I can use a whole bunch of them.
You can usually buy fabric from the computer, but it’s not a good idea to try coordinating an entire project this way. You simply don’t have the quality control over fabrics when you’re using the chair principle.
We usually handle this by getting the cornerstone of a project – like a panel or a certain fabric – online, then coordinating the rest in a quilt store.
Our favorite online vendors help us with creating high-quality quilting projects cheaply
Listed below are some of the best sites we’ve found. We’re always finding more, which I’ll share with you as we go along, and if you know of any great ones, please let us know.
This site has many advantages. For one thing it is easy to use, even for those of us with computer phobias. Amazon has a huge warehouse along with many independent vendors, and if you buy enough – which isn’t hard to do when you’re shopping for fabric art – you’ll be provided with free shipping.
You just can’t beat Amazon for great prices on notions, appliques, and in-bulk supplies like batting, spray starch, and basting spray.
Amazon.com is not great for competitively priced fabric, however. You can find fabric, but it’s tricky, and you’ll usually wind up paying store prices.
This is our go-to for quilting fabrics and specialty fabrics like digital prints and printed panels. They have a great site that is fairly easy to use, a huge inventory, and often have panels you won’t see in stores and magazines for months. You can also shop by keywords, like “mermaids,” or by colors, or even by designers.
Fabric.com is another site that offers free shipping when you make a significant dollar purchase, usually $35.
Etsy is a unique and beautiful site and it can’t be beaten if you want a more personal and special type of item. You can make custom orders, and shop for finished products, vintage items, and crafting supplies.
Because Etsy is based on a personal vendor platform – like a farmer’s market – you also get a more personal quality of service. For instance, once we wanted silver netting and had ordered it from Amazon. Unfortunately Amazon had discontinued that line and refunded our money.
We finally found a similar item on a hat shop on Etsy. We contacted the owner with what we really wanted, and she was kind enough to redirect us to their main site where they had exactly what we needed – for many dollars less than we would have paid on Amazon.
They have a HUGE selection of everything with good prices. Plus they have continuous sales, and if you’re signed in to their e-mail, you get notified all the time. This is the best place to get your batting in bulk.
Their website is tricky and annoying, however. You have to know exactly what you want. The best way to take advantage of Joann’s is to save those coupons from their emails, and take them into a physical store.
They’re not much for quilting fabric, but their notions are fabulous – from all their wedding stuff, to their fake flowers, and beads and crystals. For instance I found some small, silver poinsettia leaves there, that I’m going to use for fairy wings.
This is another frustrating website to use, but it can be done, and they also offer you large discounts and free shipping quite frequently. One good tip is to save the packaging from notions you’ve purchased in store. That way if you need more and you live a distance from a Hobby Lobby (like we do) you can order that item much more easily.
If you’re into making projects like purses, aprons, or duffle bags, this site is impossible to beat. They carry every type & color of strapping available, and you will pay so much less than you would at any physical store. Then there’s the hardware. I paid $1.00/per buckle here, instead of the $15.00 for the same thing at the quilt store.
They have super great deals on their flowers, but you can only get them in bulk. If you need 50 iris bunches at once – which is something like a hundred flowers – this is the place to go.
These physical vendors also help us with creating high-quality quilting projects cheaply
Walmart
Walmart’s not so great on fabric anymore, though they do carry a little of everything, and I go here when I need something immediately. The fabric quality varies though, so watch out for that.
They’re also pretty good at notions, fabric flowers, and zippers. They don’t have a great selection, but at least you get only one! I noticed at one of our quilt stores a can of basting spray cost $19.50! I almost choked, since you can get the very same thing at Walmart for around $7.00.
Walmart’s website is a little goofy, so I prefer to go in personally.
Thrift stores
Besides the fact that I love thrift stores, you can often find notions that are 100% unique. From clothes with cool buttons – buy the article for 50 cents and cut the buttons off – to large scarves you can incorporate into your fabric art designs. Thrift stores also sell T-shirts, which can be used to make T-shirt quilts, striped dresses, and straps for bags if you’re into offbeat fabric arts.
Many of them now sell baggies of reclaimed hardware. The store itself cuts off unique or fancy buckles, hooks, or buttons, and sells them separately. We found the coolest buckle in one of our thrift stores. We don’t know where we’ll use it yet, but we couldn’t resist.
Antique Malls
This is touch-and-go, but if you enjoy wandering in antique stores and malls, keep an eye out for unique notions or fabrics. Antique malls can also be hideously expensive, or ridiculously cheap. Exercise good judgement, and you can spice up your projects with old-fashioned charm for practically nothing.
Combining These Powerful Principles
If you stay aware of sales gimmicks and emotional impulses, shop smart, and order online as much as you can, you will be able to save quite a lot of money. Quilting and fabric art will still cost, but by applying the chair control principle over the paint and potato principle you will be surprised at your incredible new ability for creating high-quality quilting projects cheaply.
Getting the Best of Your Quilting Stash – Before it Gets the Best of You
You have a sewing space and sewing supplies. The problem is that your sewing supplies will always – always – outgrow your sewing space. Unless you start corralling clutter now, your quilting stash will cheerfully bury you under a massive tidal wave.
All quilters have a stash of some sort.
A stash is any fabric that is left over from a sewing project, or fabric that you’ve bought because you’re intending to do a project that never happens, or just fabric that you fall in love with. For instance:
I absolutely LOVE all fabric that has an autumn theme, so I have a great deal of that.
Barb is physically incapable of passing up anything paisley, so her paisley stash is huge.
Keeping it all neat and organized is an issue that has to be answered by every seamstress. Unless you’re one of those people who work best in an environment of total chaos, then the question of organization has to be addressed for your specific situation before you can even begin to sew.
Ways that I’ve Successfully Corralled Clutter
Over time you’ll develop your own ways to corral the mess and fuss that sewing and quilting generates.
To start with, though, I like to know what I’m going to have to store – and more importantly, where I can put my hands on it when I want it. Having to search and search for something I know I have and want for a specific project frustrates me out the yin-yang and I become very unpleasant to be around.
I tend to buy ahead on any fabric I see that could be used in a fantasy type panel, so I’m always thinking of how I’m going to keep various materials that go with a specific project together and organized.
I also loathe dust and dusting, so I’m all about storing everything in closed containers. Here is what I’ve learned.
Start Corralling Clutter by Defining Your Space
Look realistically at the space that is available to you. Everyone’s situation is different and it changes with the times, so this is fluid. I like to define how far my sewing tide can spread in the space available to me.
When you’re deciding this, look at places for your:
Sewing machine
Ironing board
Cutting space – typically a counter or table
And where you will store your stash.
For years I kept my sewing machine in the bottom of a closet and brought it out to sew with on the dining room table. Now I have a desk where it sits all the time, and that is much more convenient.
For the first time ever, I also have the room to keep my ironing board set up permanently on my right side. This is a huge convenience but not at all necessary.
Large shopping bags can be used to corral the clutter from a particular sewing project. In this case we are using two big bags to keep the fabric, notions, and batting for a twin quilt in one easily accessed place while we work on various sections.
If you don’t have enough room for a permanent style sewing setup, make sure you put everything back every time. Otherwise it will become a habit to leave it out and soon the clutter will be driving you insane.
Keep in mind that not all of your stuff has to be all in one space.
I store my big rolls of batting and my rarely used tubs of notions in a small closet in the spare room. Barb’s sewing “room” is a small walk-in closet in her spare room and she manages to keep all her stuff neatly organized with shelves where she stacks her fabric and a peg board on the wall behind her machine to hang her thread spools on.
See if there are any cupboards, closets, drawers, or a lazy-Susan (cupboard turntable) you can commandeer for your supplies.
What about floor space or wall space?
I was getting incredibly frustrated with my space when Michael suggested he put up some wire shelves in the 3 foot space on the wall between the cupboard and window. He put up 4 short shelves for me, and that has made a huge difference to my frustration levels.
I like to keep as much of my fabric in tubs as possible.
This is because I hate dust – this solution keeps my fabric clean and – as an added bonus – easily accessible.
I took the measurements of my shelves with me to Walmart and found clear tubs that would fit in that space. Not all of my tubs are the same size. I use the larger ones for material and then I got a bunch of smaller ones that fit on top of the larger ones for each shelf. In these I keep my sewing supplies like iron cleaner, fabric glue, Velcro, markers, etc.
All of these tubs are clear so that I can see what’s in them without having to take them down and look. I also purchased a few of those plastic pullout drawer filing cabinets that Walmart carries. I set these wherever it’s convenient. I like to use the big, deep ones for storing fabric.
Organize the way that makes sense to you.
It doesn’t matter if no one else “gets” the way you corral clutter; it just has to work for you. Even if it looks like a total disaster to an outsider – who cares? You’ll know where you’re at.
I organize by theme and color. I have 3 large tubs of autumn fabric, one of landscape fabrics, a Christmas one, etc. Then I have my blue/purple tub, the teal/turquoise tub, my water fabrics tub, etc.
Wire shelving right above my sewing space helps keep all my most frequently used supplies, notions, and fabrics close at hand and still out of the way.
I use these fabrics frequently, 4-5 times a year. Plenty of time for them to get filthy with dust and lint unless they are kept in clear plastic storage tubs.
A variety of ongoing projects and sewing supplies fit great into these smaller tubs.
Corralling Notion Clutter with Genre Jars
(Leiajoy came up with the genre jar name – BTW!)
Storing notions is something you need to give a great deal of thought to. Because they’re usually smaller (like buttons and beads), or on rolls like ribbon, they can’t be stacked neatly in tubs.
I organize notions just like my fabrics – by color and theme.
A genre jar can be anything from an empty candy tub to a glass jar with a fitted lid (like the kind you use for spices in the kitchen) to a Tupperware or plastic container.
Genre jars should really be clear or clear-ish, so that you can see what’s in them, and they should also have lids (the dust, you know). Plastic works better for higher shelves – but you can use glass if you have a place to set them where they won’t be knocked off.
For small, easily lost items my solution so far has been to use the smaller plastic containers that have a whole bunch of small compartments for buttons, appliques, my thread, beads and smaller novelty items. (These are very nice because they’re relatively small and flat, so they can be stacked neatly anywhere.)
Genre jars are also perfect for things like my decorative ropes, spools of ribbon, etc. And they work well for bigger buttons, and feathers. (I know that because I’m storing feathers in preparation for a tropical project.)
Another thing I’ve found works great is a hanging shoe rack.
These are cloth tubes with sort-of-shelves inside a canvas canopy. They’re made to be hung from a ceiling hook, and the outside has small pockets that are just perfect for shoes – or fabric flowers, or large rolls of ribbon.
Plus a hanging shoe rack can be easily hung over any door.
Corralling Clutter with the “Great Thread Roundup”
I used to keep all my spools in a large wicker basket but this was a nightmare with ends tangling up and having to dig through the entire basket to find the spool I wanted.
Now I have a tub of Aurifil quilting thread. It’s a plastic tub with 2 layers (1 of large and 1 of small spools. I bought this as a set and I’ve never regretted it. It’s been 6 years now, and even though I quilt with these threads all the time, it looks as though I’ve barely started on it.
These old-fashioned crystal jars are my button genre jars. They work perfectly for keeping a variety of specialty buttons which come in odd-shaped packages.
Junk food hath a few rewards. One of them being that this once-upon-a-time cheese ball jar has, after being well-washed, pressed into service as my trusty genre jar of odd-shaped supplies like a roll of yarn and faux feathers.
Arguably my favorite method for corralling clutter – ever! These small tubs are flat, simple, and hold those supplies that really tend to run away from you, like beads. This is also my preferred case for regular spools of thread.
I also buy a lot of specialty threads, like metallics and variegated, so I bought a deep plastic thread tub with plastic spool holders built in. This keeps those nicely corralled.
For leftover regular sized spools, I use the same plastic containers I use for my beads and buttons. I have 4 of these and I organize them by color. When I need a certain color, it’s only the work of minutes to find it. These are great because they stack easily and neatly and keep the dust off of everything.
Some threads don’t have a tie-off built into the spool. You can either stick them down with tape – a major pain – or store all these spools in a separate tub to minimize the damage.
Corralling your Sewing Supplies
For the sewing supplies that I use on an almost daily basis, I purloined a Tupperware tub from my kitchen that had lost its lid. In this I keep my scissors, pin cushion, rulers, corner turner, seam ripper, etc.
Besides being real handy, this topless solution allows me to simply grab whatever I need without bothering with lids.
Corralling Your Patterns and Books
You will inevitably end up with a great many patterns, books, and even plastic bags with your applique pieces. My system is to keep all the books on one half of a shelf on the girls’ business bookshelf.
The patterns that come in in Ziploc bags – and the applique shapes – I file in a large plastic basket that I keep in the same closet as my batting.
Here’s to Your Success in Corralling Clutter!
Whatever storage system you eventually adopt you can be sure that the ebb tide will sooner or later swell to a tidal wave and threaten to overwhelm someone else’s space.
When this happens, the only thing to do is go through everything and sort like crazy. You can’t keep everything so you have to be ruthless. Give your throwaways to friends, or a thrift store, or your quilting guild, etc.
I can’t say it enough – clear plastic tubs are the way to go when it comes to corralling clutter.
These flat plastic tubs once contained Christmas candy. But they are flat, with tight-fitting lids and they stack beautifully. I generally use them to store odds and ends like specialty ribbons and appliques.
If you don’t you’ll end up drowning under it all and that wouldn’t be very nice, now would it?
You will eventually develop a kind of working rhythm, but it’s always worthwhile to clean up every time you finish a project. You’ll be less frustrated, and your clean-up won’t be such a major pain!
A Comprehensive Guide to Working With Metallic Threads
Metallic threads are a wonderful, if frequently frustrating, addition to the world of quilting. Here we’ll talk about:
Why we love metallic thread
How to overcome the problems metallic threads cause
And what types are available
The Science behind Glitter…and Metallic Threads
As all you fashionable ladies know, adding accessories to your fancy outfits can take an ensemble from nice to great in one fell swoop.
If your accessories glitter, that’s even better!
A little glitz really adds a LOT of bang for your buck. A gold necklace can take a black sweater from austere to rich, or a string of pearls can soften up a business suit.
Some of this is the human appreciation for beauty. Some of it might be the added perception of value – if it glitters, it must be worth more. I tend to think that a lot of it is the child within all of us, reaching out for something sparkly.
However it works, just know that most people enjoy sparkles, glitz, and glitter.
This picture of our mermaid in a tropical sea represents why we sew with metallic thread. The glitz and glitter can create an incredible feeling of 3-dimensional life when working with 2-dimensional mediums. The question is: “How do I achieve these results?”
Metallic threads are the quilting world’s glittery accessories, and they provide the exact same kind of instant love and attraction for quilters and non-quilters alike.
Metallics aren’t appropriate for every project, but it’s amazing how many places you can add them. And, just like your fashionable bling, they focus the eye, take your project up a bunch of notches, and make others “ooh” and “ahh” over the amazing talent of you.
The Problem with Metallic Threads
I don’t believe that “no good deed goes unpunished” but I do believe that for every wonderful thing in a quilter’s life – there is a downside.
Sewing machines make sewing 100 times easier – until they break down
Velvet adds texture and depth to a project – but you can’t iron on it
Metallic threads are beautiful – but they are very challenging to sew with
Sewing with metallic threads can drive you zazbatt, because they have an annoying tendency to break, or strip out in the needle’s eye.
I first tried sewing with these sparkly threads about 5 years ago, and I quickly gave it up because they made me want to commit seppuku.
At the time I swore to heaven I would never, ever touch another thread that had a touch of glitz. However, like all addicts, I eventually got pulled back in because these threads are so very beautiful. This is where the closet masochism of quilters comes in.
Things in the quilting world had moved on since I’d given up metallic threads, and the new products convinced me to try again.
There’s huge variety available to quilters when it comes to choosing the right metallic thread. From cheap spools that can be found at Walmart, to designer quality only found in quilt stores, there is glitz and glitter available for your budget.
Time, trials, blood, sweat, and tears taught me a few things about using these diva-level beauties, and here is what I learned. There are two major tricks to handling metallic threads without going entirely insane:
Use the Right Needles
They now make special needles just for metallic threads. How awesome is that?
Metallic thread needles have been manufactured so that the problem of your thread being stripped as it goes through the eye is greatly reduced. (I’m not sure how this works, but I sure love the results.)
Some brands of metallic threads are more prone to stripping than others – particularly monofilament metallic – but these needles make the process much more enjoyable.
They’re also widely available, from quilt stores to Walmart. The most easily available metallic needles are made by SCHMETZ in size 80/12. You can get needles for metallic threads in various sizes, like any other needle, but I prefer the size 12 needles for my topstitching because they leave smaller holes than the larger ones.
These Sulky Holoshimmer threads are the most beautiful metallic threads available today. However, they are the most difficult to work with. Do not attempt to use if you are a beginner, or if you don’t deal well with constant breakage in your thread.
Desperate Times Alternative
Once, when I needed these wonderful metallic needles very badly and the stores were out, a clerk suggested that I try the Jersey needles – also made by SCHMETZ – and surprisingly they work almost as well. Jersey thread needles are designed to handle slippery fabrics and delicate thread, so I keep a package as back-up.
Proper Bobbin Techniques
The breakage problem with metallic threads can be largely mitigated by working with your bobbin tension and the thread you use in your bobbin.
When I first started sewing seriously I always used the thread I was using in the topstitch line for my bobbin thread, and I almost always left my bobbin tension at its default setting. I eventually discovered that this is seldom a good idea, and never, ever when you’re sewing with glitzy threads.
*Note: These bobbin rules work for any type of lightweight or monofilament thread, especially invisible thread.
Finding the Right Bobbin Thread
One nightmare I lived through was using the same metallic thread in the bobbin that I was using on top. Not only was this a huge waste of this pricy thread – it snarled up within a few inches.
Sometimes all you need is a single spot of metallic thread. On this large panel we used silver metallic thread only in the eyes of the fairy. This is also a great way to start for beginners – but here’s a tip, loosen up your tension. If you make a mistake in an eye, and tear the fabric when pulling the stitches, you’ll wreck the entire panel. (Which might have almost happened with this Sweet Rose quilt – only we don’t admit to it!)
I also found that threads made especially made for bobbins like the Bottom Line threads, didn’t like sewing with the metallic threads.
Neither did Coats thread.
Finally, after a lot of experimentation, I found that for my machines, the best combination was to have a metallic thread on top, and AURIFIL quilting thread in the bobbin. Since all machines a little different, you will need to experiment with your own on fabric scraps to see what works for you.
The Right Bobbin Tension
Even with the threads right, your metallic thread will still break if you don’t adjust your bobbin tension.
Again, this will vary with each machine, but on mine, the default tension is 4. To successfully sew with metallic thread, though, I have to lower the bobbin tension to 2.
Play around on a scrap piece of fabric until the threads are pulling evenly through your machine.
These beautiful colors work well on many different types of projects, and are almost as easy to sew with as normal threads.
*Side Note on Scrap Experiments: Your experiments will be useless unless you’re sewing on a scrap that is very similar in texture, fabric, and thickness to the project you’ll be working on. I try to keep a few scraps from my cutting for experimenting on each project. For example, if my project has cotton fabric on top and bottom, and 2 layers of batting, then I’ll make my scrap piece the same. This way you can get a much better idea of how the thread will perform in this instance.
What’s Available in the Wonderful World of Metallic Threads
Quilters have obviously clued into the beauty of metallic threads, since there are now many more brands available, and, as you would expect, they have different applications.
COATS
As of now, Coats carries gold, bronze and silver thread. Their thread is heavier so that it shows up more when you’re straight stitching. I use these when I want a very definitive look to my quilting – like when I’m highlighting.
SUPERIOR THREADS
This company now has a large inventory of metallics, and the last time I was in the quilt store, I noticed that they even had some variegated colors. I’m thinking hard where I can use them so that I can justify buying one or two. This is a medium weight thread and works well when you have areas where you require heavier quilting like satin stitching.
ULT PAPOS
This thread is made in Japan, and is a nice mid-weight thread. However, I’ve only found it in the size of Serger spools, and this doesn’t work well on my machine. You can overcome this irritation by spooling the thread onto an extra bobbin, and then using the bobbin as though it were a topstitch spool. ULT Papos does make very nice rich colors like royal blue, true red, and Christmas green.
YENMET
This thread also comes from Japan, and comes in smaller spools of 500m. Once again, it’s a mid-weight thread with lots of rich colors available.
SULKY HOLOSHIMMER
The secret to these threads are in the name – they shimmer because they’ve got lots of tiny iridescent variegations throughout. I use these when I’m doing fantasy panels like mermaids and fairies. These threads are my personal favorite because of the amazing colors – but they do have a downside, they break…a lot. And there’s really nothing to do about it since this is an extremely lightweight thread, and very thin. I often compare it to tiny strands of tinfoil. It’s also quite stretchy and so it also strips more easily than the other threads, but if you’re wanting to create an ethereal effect, this is the thread to use.
Coats Basic Metallic Threads
A Mix of Metallic Thread Brands
Either Yenmet or Ult Papos (the label’s long gone)
Sulky Holoshimmer (this is the thread used on the mermaid)
There may be other manufacturers out there, but these are the ones I’ve found and use all the time.
One Final Note
No matter which thread you choose to sew with, you will have to dig deep for extra patience. You can’t zoom along when you sew with these (in fact I recommend setting a low motor speed if your machine has that function), and no matter how careful you are, there will still be more breakage that with regular cotton threads.
I always try to sew with my metallic threads in the early morning, when I’m fresh and my patience meter is full.
Even though metallics pose a real challenge, I would encourage you to try them, because as I said at the beginning, the bling they provide will take your project from merely great to effortlessly awesome.
My dear, dear husband is a jack-of-all-trades meets shade-tree-mechanic country charmer, and for 26 years I’ve never had to deal with the plumbing, the car, or even screw in a light bulb.
However, since we’ve both retired and I’ve taken up quilting as my hobby, he’s taken up sewing machine tinkering as his.
I have a high dollar Bernina and a Singer workhorse machine to handle all my different projects, and they both occasionally need tuning up – but he absolutely refuses to take either one in for an expert checkup. And, as the laws of Fate or maybe even Murphy would have it, they always break down at the exact same time.
Sometimes my machines are on his workbench for months (we’re talking four or five at a time) while I twiddle my thumbs, feeling like an addict gone cold turkey.
I don’t want to waste money because he does eventually fix them, or hurt his feelings, because he’s doing it out of love, but I swear I’m about to start having withdrawal seizures.
What would you do?
Sincerely,
Sewing Machine Withdrawal
A
Dear Withdrawal,
Wow! 4-5 months without your sewing machine. If I see someone crawling up the wall I will assume it’s you, not Spiderman.
That being said – please give your man a kiss from us. Those hard-working, shade-tree mechanic types are few and far between, and they’re worth their weight in gold. I should know – I’ve got one of my own.
My darling Prince BlueShoe isn’t such a creative guy, but he takes good care of all of us here, and most importantly – he makes sure that we get what we need to continue being creative. And yes, I’ve seen the guts of my sewing machines spilled out all over his table more than once.
The Truth About Sewing Machine Trouble
We are all quite sure that there will be no sewing machine engineers – at least not any from the last century – in heaven.
Sewing machines, sadly, have a limited life, and they are created with components that break down over time.
This is especially true of the really fancy and expensive quilting machines from companies like Bernina and Janome. (They make great machines, don’t get me wrong, but maintenance is a nightmare!)
Here’s some tips to help you out with your problem:
Professional grade sewing machines aren’t supposed to be privately maintained
This standard is pretty regular. Bernina and Janome both have their own certified technical repairmen for maintenance.
You can take this advice with about a tablespoon of salt, however.
Prince BlueShoe hates taking my Bernina in because it is very expensive, and he’s been doing it so long that he actually does a better job than the repairman – he’s just very, very slow at it.
This is a balance of love and necessity.
Your guy is probably right, constant professional repair is a rip off. And once you’ve let him dig into your machine once, odds are you’ll never get him to quit.
Besides, who are we kidding? Is our sewing ever going to trump loving our men?
Allow your guy to regularly maintain your machines
This is something I struggle with. I love to sew, not wait to sew.
But I’ve found that if I can conquer myself enough and allow Prince BlueShoe to do some basic maintenance after every two or three projects (on one machine at a time) I still get to sew on the other machine, and the sewing machine is back in service a lot faster.
Do non-sewing stuff in the meantime
Your machines will always have the occasional sick day. And there’s no reason for you to stop your projects cold turkey.
There’s a whole bunch of things you can do that won’t require a sewing machine.
You can clean your workspace
This will probably only take a day or two, but it’s always helpful to get your notions, fabric, thread, and other paraphernalia cleaned up whenever the machines are on the blink.
Prepare your next project
While your machine is on the workbench you can always do other sewing stuff. Picking out fabric for a new project, ironing, cutting, or hand sewing.
For those of us who do big quilts without a long-arm machine, for instance, sewing machine woes might be a good time to finish a big quilt that was quilted in sections and needs to be stitch by hand to finish the backing.
Or you can cut out applique shapes for another projects.
Have a “I’m putting my foot down” deadline
Your guy is wonderful, as is mine. But they will take every inch and multiply it with hours.
Eventually – particularly if he’s messed up one of the computerized components – you may just have to say:
“You’ve had five months, and I want my machine back next week!”
Make your own patterns
Sewing machine trouble time might be a really good time to look over what you’ve accomplished, what you would like to do, and learn how to make a project from scratch.
At the very least it’s a creative challenge – which is what your sewer’s mind is truly missing while your machines are fritzing out.
You’re not alone! Sewing machine trouble gets to us all sooner or later. I’ve seen my sewing machines’ guts spilled out across Prince BlueShoe’s worktable more times than I care to admit.
Don’t believe me? Here’s photographic evidence…
Something’s wrong with the tension. Off comes the cover, out comes the screwdriver, a couple of months down!
The needle won’t go down – off comes the cover, out come the little wooden shims and magnifying glass. Lovely man – give me my machines back NOW!
Ahh! The agony. My poor, poor needle driver is completely dismantled. No sewing for a little while.
This has something to do with something known as “timing.” For those of you who own a professional grade machine and have a shade-tree mechanic working on it, you will learn about timing – and all the horrible circles of “H-E-double-toothpicks” reserved for the person who linked the timing to (I honestly stopped listening at this point, but it was very complicated).
Icky – more guts.
Hmm… That one was almost pretty. Oh, I forgot – I have no sewing machine!
Almost there! Oops, famous last words. Another month and I still don’t have a machine.
Read Princess YellowBelly!
You can always come and catch up with the great content on our website.
Finally: you’re not alone!
Everyone has slack periods, busy periods, dead periods, and purely frustrating periods in both life and creativity.
You’re not alone in it – and there’s always something else to be creative about.
With a hug for you and your man from your magically creative friends, and best wishes on getting your sewing machines, trouble free, soon!
Remember the massive horse that charged across the theater of your imagination as a child? Now he’s back, forever running free on a sunset beach. Princess YellowBelly’s new black stallion quilt brings the incredible romance of the past together with quilting techniques.
Center your home with a framed picture of a black stallion quilted wall hanging.
For anyone who ever loved the Black Stallion books or movies this is the chance to relive the experience every time you catch a glimpse of our nicely sized (17 ¾” X 22”) fabric art décor piece.
Princess YellowBelly and her friends used a variety of styles and quilting techniques to create this piece:
Silhouette Landscape Quilting
The scene is constructed with fiery orange and yellow quilting material to recreate a sunset beach.
A narrow strand of black material makes a solid beach, setting up the baseline for the black highlights and powerful drama that this piece entails.
Applique Quilting
Both the beach and the black stallion are separate pieces of black fabric that have been appliqued to the gorgeous sunset background of the quilt.
Fractured Quilting
This black stallion quilt features an extra bit of amazing! A reflection of the horse and sunset is perfectly captured in the water.
This is done using a technique called fractured quilted – where two or more images are cut apart and sewn back together to create the displacement optical illusion.
Fabric Marking Pen Enhancements
The black stallion quilt is made realistic by the addition of fabric pen markings on the horse’s mane and tail. These carefully replicated markings make the hair on the mane and tail appear to be truly flying free.
Tailored Quilting
Running Wild is quilted in two different sections – and styles.
The top, or single image, is quilted in sun rays and by outlining the black stallion, popping him out of the rest of the quilt. The bottom, or inverted fractured image, is quilted in uneven concentric circles to replicate rippling water and add to the magically realistic qualities of the black stallion quilt wall hanging.
One-of-a-Kind
All in all the sunset & black stallion quilt “Running Wild” is a fabric art experience not to be missed.
You can purchase it on our Etsy.com seller platform – Lilies Of Grace – or read more specific product details below.
Princess YellowBelly and her friends (human and magical) love this piece so much that we’re turning it into a pattern and kit. This will soon be available, keep a sharp eye.
Material & DimensionsCare & DisplayCustom Orders & Layaway
Princess YellowBelly’s black stallion Running Wild panel:
Measures exactly 17 ¾” inches wide X 22 inches high
Predominant colors are solid black, vibrant orange, fire red, pale yellow, and rich gold
Running Wild shows a black horse running along a beach at sunset. His image is “reflected” in the water
Is back with true black batik fabric (same as the image of the horse)
Running Wild is tagged or named
Weighs very little
Folds into a surprisingly small and flat package
Is a vividly realistic wall art panel
Sunset material is from a collection called “Tuscan Poppies Sunset” and is a batik-quality quilter’s fabric.
The black fabric is solid Kona fabric (sometimes known as true Amish black).
Running Wild is quilted with warm and natural quilter’s cotton batting.
Care & Cleaning
Running Wild is an easy-care piece.
Recommended care and upkeep with a lint brush
Machine wash (cool, delicate cycle with a gentle detergent) if needed
Can be tumble-dried, although air-dry is recommended
May be cool-ironed (cotton settings) to remove packing wrinkles. Safe to iron with water or spray-starch
Display Options
We use regular household thumbtacks to secure our fabric art panels for display. They hold the panel tight and fabric is self-healing, once the tacks are removed the holes will close up again.
If you would prefer to use a hanging or curtain rod to display Running Wild, we offer hanging sleeve options.
Hanging sleeves are only attached upon your order and your selection of your preferred choice –
Top Hanging Sleeve for normal hanging
Top & Bottom Hanging Sleeve if you would like to weight the panel as well
Hanging sleeves are made of the same material as the backing fabric, and are about four inches wide each (although this can be adjusted to custom requirements). They are attached under the binding seam line, and are secured with hand stitching to ensure that the seam won’t show through on the front of the panel.
If you would like to discuss customized options, please contact us directly!
Custom Orders
We are always happy to talk about a new piece with your ideas! If you have an idea you would like to see developed, or if you would like to have us make you something specifically please contact us.
You can talk to us at our Etsy.com shop – or you can use the contact form below to submit your questions & ideas.
Layaway
Sometimes the prices on our artwork can seem a little out-of-reach, which we understand! We try to charge very reasonable fees, but if you really want Autumn Rondelle, but don’t think you can afford it in one go, please contact us via the form at the bottom and request a custom layaway program.
Buy Now
Thanks for getting all the way to bottom of this piece! Please let us know what you think in the comments below, or contact us.
*Photographer’s Note: Due to the intense oranges and red of the background sunset fabric, Running Wild proved difficult to photograph accurately as the color confused the camera’s sensors.
While every effort was made to clearly capture the colors of this fabric art wall hanging, some color clarity was lost in the photographic process. The sunset-to-black ratio is much clearer and true-color than the photographs represent.
If you haven’t already heard of beautiful batik fabrics you’re in for a treat. They are the most gorgeous fabrics available to quilters at this writing.
There are a plethora of gorgeous fabrics available under the heading of “batik,” from metallic rinse to patterns to semi-solids. The most beautiful of them all are Bali batiks. Unfortunately, they’re also the most expensive.
So maybe the question is “how do I use these beautiful batik fabrics without taking out a second mortgage?”
That answer is a bit longer and more involved, so to answer it we’ve written a long and involved description of the most beautiful fabrics available to quilters, and the best ways to buy them.
Modern History of the Evolution of Quilting Fabrics
When I first started quilting – way back in the good old days – the only fabrics available were cottons, some patterned and some solid, and I got them mostly at Walmart. I really didn’t see the point of spending so much more money on fabric, especially as it was “just” cotton as well.
However, I lived and I learned.
I first noticed batiks about 20 years ago, and once I’d tried them, I gave up the old cottons. I think droves of other quilters did the same, as it wasn’t very long before Walmart drastically started reducing their fabric selections.
Artistic Value
The differences between the regular, old school fabrics and beautiful batiks is huge, and once you’ve tried batiks you’ll see this for yourself.
Difference #1: Colors
Batiks are gorgeous. (I will be repeating this, as it is absolutely true.)
Batiks come with deep, rich colors, and they are always patterned, usually in swirls and sweeps. It looks as though the colors have been washed over the fabric with water, and this is essentially how it’s done, using salt as a permanent fixer for the vibrant dyes.
This is oversimplified, of course, but you get the idea. You can go to this incredible video to see how batiks are made in more detail.
Many batiks are “only one color,” but that single color will vary from dark to light, with spots, streaks and swirls all through it. Most batiks, however, have more than one color, and this really ups the possibilities for you in coordinating your fabric choices.
The combinations are truly endless!
Difference #2: No Right or Wrong Sides
The dyeing process leaves both sides of a batik fabric with the same saturation of color. In essence, a batik does not have a right or a wrong side – which makes it very handy when you’re cutting out directional pieces.
As a person who makes frequent mistakes, I cheer this feature times ten! If you cut one wrong you only have to flip it over.
Difference #3: No Pre-Wash is Necessary
I don’t have to wash batiks first before I use them.
The old cottons would lose a lot of color and had significant shrinkage value, leaving fabric artists literally no option. A fabric that had not been prewashed could easily destroy a quilt.
Batiks benefit from the permanence of their dyeing process which makes them:
Nearly fade proof
Shrinkage is virtually nil
Small chance of bleeding (except in some of the darkest red and orange colors)
When I’m using mostly batiks and other high-grade quilting cottons there isn’t enough risk for me to go to all the work of washing, drying, ironing and starching every piece I buy.
Barb still does this, bless her heart, but she’s older than I am and more set in her ways. She’s also more patient, so maybe we should all take a page from her book. She snips off a corner of every piece that she washes, and then she can tell instantly what has been laundered and what hasn’t, which I think is extremely clever.
The Major Drawback
Beautiful batiks do have the drawback of being more expensive than regular cottons but there are ways of blunting the pain of this.
First of all:
I try to buy only what I need with maybe an extra ½ yard as a buffer if I make a mistake. If I don’t make a mistake – or only make small mistakes – the extra goes into my stash. The other benefit to this is that soon your stash will be big enough that you’ll seldom have to buy anything for smaller projects like wall hangings and table runners.
Always check your stash first, before you head for the quilt store.
Secondly:
Check the sale shelves first. Most quilt stores have fabrics that aren’t selling well, or that have been discontinued by the seller, and if they meet your needs, you can save a bundle on fabric.
This is where I almost always get my backing fabrics. I also don’t use batiks on the backs of my projects, it’s just too expensive, but on the sale shelves I often find very good quality fabric for half price of less.
Many fabric companies sell extra-wide material, up to 60” wide specifically for backing material, and while the dollar figure is higher $16-$20 a yard, you also need less and will need to do less cutting and piecing.
This beautiful batik is a prime example of a “single color” batik fabric. Several different shades of orange swirl and star through it, fading from almost white through to a darker color in the low-tone highlights.
This is an example of how beautiful batiks can work together to make something great. Only one fabric – the dark red swirl – is not a batik in this picture, yet it works beautiful with the others.
The same project used multiple batiks and regular quilting fabric. Here the pattern is coming together, with edging down in embroidery thread which has the effect of pulling the dark colors of the different batiks through to the front.
Batiks look especially amazing when used in landscapes, or like this example, with true black fabrics. The quality of the fabrics is approximate, but the solid black figures serve to make the beautiful batik sunset glow.
Batiks can be used with other beautiful batiks to create incredible layers within a project. The turquoise, aqua, and purple batiks above were used in a large landscape quilt to add an “ocean” layer.
Thirdly:
Check your quilt stores’ website regularly for sales. Mine often has 10% – 30% discount sales on featured batiks.
Barb always tells me about these, as I always forget to check.
Lastly:
Search on the Internet for fabric websites with good deals. My favorite is Fabric.com. They have a great selection and typically sell fabric for anywhere from $1-$4 cheaper per yard than the quilt stores.
Amazon.com also carries a lot of fabric, as does JoAnn’s Fabrics. So shop around. Even a few dollars less per yard can make a big difference if you’re shopping for a queen size quilt, etc. Most of these sites will also offer free shipping coupons periodically, and sometimes if you purchase enough dollar value in product you will also get free shipping. J
Bonus Tip:
I forgot to mention that Nancy’s Notions has fabric on sale in its catalogue a number of times per year, and these are a really good deal as well.
Also if you subscribe to Nancy’s Notions magazine you will get a flyer a couple of times a year with their leftover stock on sale, sometimes for as much as $5 a yard. This is the long-distance version of a sales rack, and they are not to be missed.
One last thing, (for real this time):
The difference between Bali batiks and all other batiks.
Bali batiks come from the island of Bali and are hand-dyed by women, which as you would expect, make them more expensive. They are also even more gorgeous than “regular” batiks.
They are the crème de la crème of the fabric world.
And I don’t usually buy these unless I can’t find anything else that comes close to what I need – mostly because I’m cheap. But if money is no object for you then go for it.
Your projects will have the most gorgeous fabrics available and will absolutely glow.
